Spices and Food Culture in Native Minorities of Dehong

Xiaomei ZHANG

Dehong Teachers College,Dehong 678400,China

Responsible editor:Tingting XU Responsible proofreader:Xiaoyan WU

Dehong Dai and Jingpo Autonomous Prefecture is located in West Yunnan.It is a frontier minority autonomous prefecture.Dai,Jingpo,Achang,Lisu,De’ang and other 30 kinds of minorities live there.Dehong Dai and Jingpo Autonomous Prefecture is the main settlements of Dai,Jingpo and Achang minorities.In the multi-ethic-populated areas,different minorities have different customs and cultures,so the foods also have their local unique characteristics.In recent years,with the development of folk tourism and prosperity of local economy and culture,the originally-unknown ethnic food and drink have been more and more famous.There are Dai flavor restaurants(halls)in almost all major cities in Yunnan.In addition,Dai flavor restaurant (halls)can also be found in Beijing,Nanjing and Chengdu.They all have received good repercussions from eaters[1-3].In this context,the demand for spices those form special flavor has become more and more huge.Many spices should be introduced from Dehong.Therefore,the researches on spice plants in native minorities of Dehong and their application have attracted more and more attention.

Overview on Special Natural Resources in Dehong

Dehong (97°31′-98°43′E,23°50′-25°20′ N) is one of the eight minority autonomous prefectures in Yunnan Province.It is also the starting point of"Southern Silk Road" in ancient times.Dehong has a tropical monsoon climate of South Asia,which is characterized by warm winter,cool summer,abundant rainfall,wet and dry seasons and being distributed with a variety of rare tropical and subtropical plants and animals.The special climate resources,unique natural landscape,rich cultural connotation and prosperous border trade make Dehong an attractive tourist resort.

Overview on Food Culture in Native Minorities of Dehong

In this multi-ethic populated area,various minorities all have their own unique food cultures due to the differences in religious belief,living environment,economic level and cultural level.The various food cultures all distinctly reflect the long histories of various minorities and the multi-ethnic characteristics in this area.Among the minorities in Dehong,Dai has the largest number and most widely distribution.The Dai people usually live in the river basins,dams and tropical regions.They affect the surrounding people from Achang,De’ang and other minorities which have less than 100 000 of population in terms of religious belief,food culture and customs.Most of the Dai,Achang and De’ang people have a belief in Theravada Buddhist.Jingpo,another native minority in Dehong,has a population of 125 100,accounting for more than 95%of the total of Jingpo population in China.In addition to primitive religious beliefs,part of Jingpo and Lisu people follow Christian.More and more people are concentrated from alpine mountains and half-mountain and halfdam areas to towns.With the development of economy and people’s living standards,in some villages inhabited by Jingpo people,chapels have been constructed and choirs composed by mass have been organized.

Aside water and soil raises a side people.Dehong has its unique subtropical monsoon climate of South Asia with hot rainy season and heavy heat.In according to beliefs and customs,the native minorities that have lived in a long-term harmony with nature have learned to utilize cleverly and extensively various organs of local various natural plants into their cooking with local characteristics.Considering the selection of spices,the medical functions of spices themselves are unignorable.The spices usually have functions of expelling wind,dispelling humidity,resolving summer heat,dissipating heat,nourishing liver and appetizing.The cooking techniques of sour,spicy and bitter flavors are well known.There are total six kinds of cooling methods,including pestling,roasting,boiling,cutting,frying and pickling.The boiled dished is represented by Dai Suanbacai,beef (mutton,pork) Huba and Suansun chicken(fish).The local minorities also like to eat raw meat.In Dai Minority,people often chop various raw meats and make into salads.They call these dishes as "sa",such as Niusa,Yusa and Yangsa.In Jingpo Minority,there are famous Ghost Chicken and Roast Suckling Pig.Based on the processing and utilization techniques of local natural spice plants,the flavor diet with local minority characteristics is formed.So the investigation on local natural spice plant resources and their application is indispensable for researches on local ethic food culture.

Natural Spices in Native Minorities of Dehong and Their Application

Citrus limon

The annual average temperature in Dehong is 18.4-20.3 ℃,and the annual rainfall is 1 400-1 700 mm.So Dehong has a typical tropical monsoon climate of South Asia,which is characterized by hot rainy seasons.In the process of long-term struggle with nature,native minorities have learned to eat sour food to reach the goals of resolving summer heat,dissipating heat,nourishing liver,appetizing,strengthening spleen and promoting digestion.The sour flavor comes from fruits of many natural plants,such as lemon,papaya,red bayberry,tree tomato,wild yellow fruit and pickled bamboo shoots.Pickled bamboo shoots and lemon are commonly-used sour materials by local people of all nationalities.

The fruits of Citrus limon are rich in vitamin C.They are mainly used in salads,dips and drinks.Citrus limon(Rutaceae:Citrus) is evergreen small tree plant.It is native to Southeast Asia.Lemon peel contains flavonoids.The leaves,flowers and fruit peels all contain lemon oil,which has various oxidized derivatives of terpenes,such as alcohols,aldehydes,ketones and esters.Lemon peel is rich in Dlimonene,which accounts for 90% of the total oil amount,followed by methyl heptanone,terpineol and coagulative limettin.In food cuisine of all minorities in Dehong,lemon has become an indispensable seasoning for its natural and pure sour and unparalleled freshness and flavor.It is popular in eaters.

Coriander

Coriandrum sativum L.Coriandrum sativum L.(Umbelliferae:Coriandrum),also called as Jiayansui and Xiangcai,is annual or biennial herb.It is usually 30-100 cm in height.The whole plant is glabrous,but has a strong aroma and many volatile oils.The shoots contain four kinds of isocoumarin,including coriandrin,dihydrocoriandrin,coriandrone A and coriandrone B.The leaves contain bergapten,imperatorin,umbelliferone,xantho-texol and scopoletin.Its special aroma comes from the volatile oils.It can suppress the unwanted smell of meat and add a sweet smell to food materials.So it is commonly used in cooling for its unique effects.Coriandrum sativum L.is a major spice in Dehong.

Eryngium foetidum L.Eryngium foetidum L.(Apiaceae:Eryngium) is also called as Dayansui,Laomianyansui,Jiayansui and Jiaxiangsui(Guangxi).Its young leaves contain dodecylene aldehyde,tetradecene aldehyde,dodecyl aldehyde,lauric acid and other aromatic substances,as well as carotene,vitamins B1,B2 and C and various trace elements required by human bodies.Eryngium foetidum L.has functions of aromatizing,benefiting stomach,promoting qi circulation,relieving pain,expelling wind and relieving the exterior.It is an edible and medical health spice.Eryngium foetidum L.is the most special one among the spices that are eaten by native minorities,and is also an important factor for the formation of Dehong flavor.It can be used in the cooking of meats,vegetables,hot dishes and cold dishes.It is a favorite of chefs in Dehong.

Polygonum viscosum Buch.-Ham.exD.Don.

Polygonum viscosum Buch.-Ham.exD.Don.is an annual herb.Its plant has special flavor.Polygonum viscosum Buch.-Ham.exD.Don.is mainly born in wetlands and ditches.It has functions of promoting qi,dispelling humidity,benefiting stomach,promoting digestion,reducing swelling and relieving pain.The leaf blades contain spicy essential oil,of which the main ingredients are polygdial,confertifolin,polygonone and persicarin.It is a seasoning for cooking fish and seafood,especially for boiling snails.It is an essential and important spice for Dai and Jingpo flavors,and is also a main flavor spice for Dehong flavor.

Ocimum basilicum

Ocimum basilicum (Lamiaceae:Ocimum) is also called as Jingjie by local people.It is an edible and medical spice plant.Its smell is similar to that of Foeniculum vulgare.Ocimum basilicum has small plant type,green leaves and colorful and fragrant flowers.The main aroma components are ocimene,α-pinene,1,8-cineole,linalool,geraniol,limonene,3-carene,pepper methyl phenol,eugenol,eugenol methyl ether,anisole,methyl cinnamate,3-hexene-1-alcohol,3-octanone and furfural.The sterilization rate of pure basil essential oil can reach 99%.

Ocimum basilicum is the best seasoning for summer green-leaf spicy vegetables.It contains a special aromatic smell,and can be used in salads and soups,improving the taste of dishes.Moreover,Ocimum basilicum has functions of appetizing,promoting digestion,descending qi,expelling wind,relieving the exterior,dispelling humidity,decanting,promoting blood circulation and complementing fine.It is an essential seasoning in cooking various fishes in Dehong area.Its flavor is pleasant and can dispel unwanted smell.Ocimum basilicum is one of the favorite spices in minorities of Dehong,and is also one of the main seasonings those form the special flavor.

Shuan Shuan La

Shuan shuan la (Solanaceae:Capsicum),also called as Xiangbi shuan shuan la and known as Ma Pie Zhang Xiang in Dai language,is a variant of wild Capsicum frutescens.It is mainly distributed in subtropical regions.Its fruits are mainly used as seasoning.The broken fruit only need to be rinsed several times in the soup,and the spicy flavor in soup is enough.Shuan shuan la,as the most special local spice,is widely used in various ethnic flavor diets due to its strong and unique pungency and small damage to gastrointestine.It is usually used in the cooling of salads and dips.Shuan shuan la is often used as a replacement for traditional peppers due to its special flavor and functions of sweating,relieving the exterior and dispelling humidity.The capsaicin and dihydro capsaicin contents in Shuan Shuan Chili,a chili brand in Mang City,were detected as 19.814 8 and 6.107 4 mg/g.So shuan shuan la is named as the most spicy pepper cultivar across the world.It is one of the hottest chilies.It is the most attracting spicy flavor for foreign eaters and is also the most widely-used spicy flavor in Dehong cuisine.

Allium tuberosum Rottl

Allium tuberosum Rottl.(Alliaceae:Allium) has functions of benefiting stomach,refreshing,preventing sweating and astringing.Allium tuberosum Rottl.Has spicy flavor due to the presence of volatile propylene sulfide.In Dehong,the unprocessed raw leek is generally cut into powder and mixed with a little salt and other seasoning.The mixture is usually used in various kinds of Sa with functions of detoxifying,resolving summer heat,appetizing,expelling wind,relieving the exterior and dispelling humidity.

Houttuynia cordata Thunb.

Houttuynia cordata Thunb.(Saururaceae:Houttuynia) is also called as Ce’ergen,Zhubikong,Choucao and Yulincao.It contains volatile oil and antimicrobial active ingredients,including decanoyl acetaldehyde,lauric aldehyde,α-pinene and linalool.

Ce’ergen salad is a traditional dish in folk with functions of clearing heat,detoxifying,diuresis and reducing swelling.It also has unique smell.So Houttuynia cordata Thunb.is considered to be an edible and medical seasoning.Its stems and leaves have been applied,as an important spice,in native food and drink with characteristics of their own nationalities.However,different processing methods of Houttuynia cordata Thunb.determine different flavors.

Foeniculum vulgare

Foeniculum vulgare (Umbelliferae:Foeniculum) is an annual herb.Its volatile oil is mainly composed by anisole,cumin ketone,methyl phenol pepper,fennel aldehyde and other ingredients.Foeniculum vulgare is the most common seasoning in native minorities of Dehong.The raw stems and leaves can be directly utilized.In addition,the raw stems,leaves and seeds,along with staple food,can also be cooked.It is an essential spice for cooking fishes,stews,marinating and making salads.It can suppress the unwanted smell in meat and add fragrance instead.This explains why it is called as Huixiang.It can be applied in salads,dishes,soups and pickles,as well as filling for dumplings and buns.In ethnic food culture of Dehong,the roots,stems,leaves and dry seeds of Foeniculum vulgare are all applicable.

Cymbopogon citratus(DC.)Stapf

Cymbopogon citratus (DC.) Stapf(Gramineae:Cymbopogon),also called as Ningmengxiangmao,Fengmaocao and Xiangmaocao,is a kind of fragrant plant.It is a perennial herb.The whole plant all has a scent of lemon,of which the main components are citral (75%-85%),myrcene (approximately 20% ),myrcene (up to 19%),limonene,methyl heptyl ketone,methyl heptyl alcohol,citronella,lemongrass acetate,geraniol,nerol,capric acid,α- and β-pinene,camphene,limonene and camphorene.In gastronomy in Dehong,certain components in Cymbopogon citratus (DC.)Stapf can be transformed into aromatic oils after cooked.The aromatic oils can suppress unpleasant smell in all meats,improve taste and enhance freshness.Cymbopogon citratus (DC.)Stapf is an essential spicy seasoning in gastronomy in South Asia,especially in Thailand.

Litsea cubeba(Lour.)Pers

Litsea cubeba (Lour.) Pers.(Lauraceae:Litsea) is also named as Shancangshu,Shancangzi,Mujiangzi,Bichengqie and Chengqie.In Thailand language,it is called as Shahaiteng.Its main chemical components are volatile oils,cubebin,resin,cubebic acid,fatty oils,starch,gum,pigments,cubeben camphor and cubebinolide.The volatile oils mainly refer to citric acid and methyl heptanone.The fatty oils don’t contain unsaponifiables.It can warm spleen and stomach,benefit stomach and promote digestion,and is an aromatic appetizing spice.In pestling cuisine in Jingpo minority of Dehong,Litsea cubeba(Lour.)Pers.Is an essential seasoning.

Conclusions

The native minorities in Dehong have been in long-term harmony with nature in the long struggle with nature in according to the rule of survival of the fittest.In response to humid and hot natural environment,in terms of application of spices in gastronomy,Dehong people paid a lot of attention to sour,acrid and spicy spices that have functions of expelling wind and dispelling humidity and "Five reconcile".In addition,the functions of suppressing unwanted smell,improving taste and enhancing freshness of spices have also received much attention.In recent years,with the prevalence of eco-tourism and folk tourism,the Dehong dishes,such as Roasted Pig and Balan in Yingjiang,Ghost Chicken and Chuntong cai in Jingpo,Cross-hand rice noodle of Achang and Suansun chicken,Sapie and Bamboo tube-boiled meat of Dai have been popular in guests[4].The dishes above all have their own characteristics due to the addition of different spices.Along with social progress and exchange of food culture among nationalities and foreign countries,based on maintaining the original flavor with characteristics of their own nationalities,the various ethnic cuisines also seek out innovation and development,which has become a trend and fashion.

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