两岸晓风頔塘绿

2020-12-08 02:07吴永祥
文化交流 2020年11期
关键词:吴兴南浔湖州

吴永祥

荻塘因唐代湖州刺史于頔曾加以修筑,故又名頔塘。它西起湖州城东之二里桥,东至江苏省平望莺脰湖,与京杭运河相连。

烟火人村盛,川途客旅稠

浙江湖州自古以来是著名的江南水乡,北有太湖,境内有东、西苕溪穿境而过,区域内河网密布。因此,可以说水是湖州的命脉,也是湖州的灵魂。

在众多的湖州河流中,有一条河已静静地流淌了一千多年,她就是頔(dí)塘(原名荻塘)。頔塘既是一条河的称谓,也是一項水利工程的名字。

历来文人,吟咏颇多

“当年于頔刺湖州,曾筑长堤捍逆流。两岸晓风杨柳绿,王孙得意骋骅骝。”这是明代诗人俞睦写的一首关于千年水利工程頔塘的诗。但頔塘历史悠久,早在东晋时代便已存在。

据北宋《太平寰宇记》引南朝宋山谦之的《吴兴记》,荻塘之筑,在东晋时,由当时的吴兴太守殷康所开,并又记载该塘“西引霅溪,东达平望官河”。另据《浔溪文献》,荻塘因唐代湖州刺史于頔曾加以修筑,故又名頔塘。

如今的頔塘是浙江省重要航道长湖申线的重要组成部分,它西起湖州城东之二里桥,东至江苏省平望莺脰湖,与京杭运河相连,在浙江省境内约34公里,流经湖州境内吴兴区八里店镇、织里镇和南浔区旧馆镇、双林镇、南浔镇。

如果从太湖溇港水利工程体系这个角度看,頔塘则属于溇港水利工程体系中“纵溇横塘”的“横塘”之一,塘与溇水系相通。

頔塘是“两堤夹一河”的水利工程,其最早建设时,主要出于灌溉的需要。按史料记载,殷太守开凿荻塘,可“旁溉田千顷”。后随着溇港水利工程体系的完善,頔塘的主要功能便是抵御洪水、圩田排灌和通航了。

对于頔塘(荻塘)的功用,历来文人吟咏之诗词颇多。如唐代诗僧皎然与李令从有荻塘联句,诗云:“画舸悠悠荻塘路,真僧与我相随去。寒花似菊不知名,霜叶如枫是何树。倦客经秋夜共归,情多语尽明相顾。遥城候骑来仍少,傍岭哀猿发无数。心闲清净得禅寂,兴逸纵横问章句。虫声切切草间悲,萤影纷纷月前度。撩乱云峰好赋诗,婵娟水月堪为喻。与君出处本不同,从此还依旧山住。”“画舸悠悠荻塘路”一句即是对頔塘航运功能的生动描写。进入民国后,頔塘上更是轮船不断,如《重建吴兴城东頔塘记》中即记载道:“轮船则经年累月,昼夜不分。”

宋人沈与求的《舟过荻塘》则云:“野航春入荻芽塘,远意相传接渺茫。落日一篙桃叶浪,薰风十里藕花香。河回遽失青山曲,菱老难容碧草芳。村北村南歌自答,悬知岁事到金穰。”

沈诗从芦荻、荻塘、夕阳、碧波、荷香、村歌入手,在描写舟过頔塘看到之景色的同时,寄托了其归隐之意。

此诗还用了一个小典故,典故的主人就是曾任吴兴太守的王献之。传说他有爱妾名桃叶,一天,桃叶渡江北去,献之歌以送之。“桃叶复桃叶,渡江不用楫。但渡无所苦,我自迎接汝。”这就是“桃叶浪”一名的由来。沈之诗中是借用,以指落日余辉映照下的波浪。

又如清代的范锴也有一首诗写頔塘,诗云:“暮霞初起日西衔,岘弁遥空涌翠岩。无限离情愁望远,荻塘波景送春帆。”

頔塘水利工程自创建以来,历代皆有修筑。据乾隆《震泽县志》载,北宋治平三年(公元1066年)吴江知县孙觉曾大修境内的荻(頔)塘,并叠石为岸,这恐怕是荻(頔)塘最早使用石材来筑堤岸的记录了。中华人民共和国建立前,湖州地区曾有两次修筑頔塘,一次发生在20世纪20年代,一次发生在20世纪40年代末。据民国时期的《浙西水利议事会年刊》《重建吴兴城东頔塘记》碑文等资料可知,20世纪20年代的那次修筑,规模大、花费巨。修筑过程中也是不断克服困难,历时近5年始成。本次修筑,计花费银币823700余元。

中华人民共和国建立后,頔塘作为水利和水运航道,又经过多次修建。最近一次修建是2007年启动的,頔塘作为长湖申航道(浙江段)的主要组成部分,整体纳入了长湖申航道(浙江段)扩建工程。工程已于2018年1月完成竣工验收。

聚财汇市,繁荣一方

頔塘因与京杭大运河相通,故而在促进湖州经济社会发展方面贡献巨大。比如,頔塘在粮食运输方面就发挥了重要作用,朱国祯《修东塘记》(东塘即頔塘)中即云:“自东门尽浔水,凡七十里,履亩而隄,漕道出焉,管一州六邑之口。”

而又由于頔塘在圩田灌排方面的作用,有效促进了塘两岸的农业生产,对当地经济的进一步繁荣起到了积极的作用。南宋卫宗武《过荻塘》诗中就有“烟火人村盛,川途客旅稠”“绵络庐相接,膏腴稼倍收”之句。

而自宋以来,湖州境内的頔塘两岸,也逐步形成了一些经济繁荣、文化发达、人才辈出的市镇,其中以晟舍镇(现属于吴兴区织里镇)、南浔镇(今属于南浔区南浔镇)为典型代表。

頔塘边的晟舍镇,主要繁荣于明清时期,并以文化、教育见长,其中凌闵两氏之彩色套印书籍闻名于世,其代表人物则是中国文学史上的著名小说家、“三言二拍”中“二拍”的作者凌濛初。晟舍闵氏则以教育有方、科甲兴盛、代有显宦而成当地望族,如明代闵家出了闵珪、闵如霖、闵梦得、闵洪学四位尚书,清代闵家出了官至巡抚的闵鹗元。如今晟舍镇已经不复存在,代之而起并名扬天下的则是頔塘边的织里镇,有名的中国童装之城。

在明清,晟舍镇出版业发达的时候,贩书业也很兴盛,大量书船通过走頔塘、上运河,将书贩至镇江、杭州、海宁等地。

南浔镇的繁荣也得益于頔塘,可以说南浔因頔塘而生,因頔塘而兴。特别是鸦片战争后,南浔凭借蚕桑业与手工缫丝业发达的优势,借助上海开埠的机会和頔塘便利的水运条件,经济进入高速发展时期,镇上也逐步形成了在中国近代史上影响深远的丝商群体。正如刘大均在《吴兴农村经济》称:“南浔以丝商起家者,其家财之大小,一随资本之多寡及经手人关系之亲疏以为断。所谓‘四象、八牛、七十二狗者,皆资本雄厚,或自为丝通事,或有近亲为丝通事者。财产达千万两白银以上者,称之曰‘象;五百万两白银以上不过千万者,称之曰‘牛;其在百万两白银以上不达五百万者,则譬之曰‘狗”。

頔塘也是湖丝走出浙江、走向中国、扬名世界的重要通道。1851年,在英国伦敦举办的首届世界博览会上,“荣记湖丝”就获得了由英国维多利亚女王亲自颁发的金奖和银奖。1915年,在巴拿马万博会上,“辑里湖丝”获得金奖。同时,中西文化也在南浔交汇,如今南浔镇上仍留有刘氏梯号、张石铭旧宅等中西合璧的建筑。

在南浔,至今仍留有一段頔塘故道,而这段故道也已作为中国大运河的一部分而被纳入世界文化遗产名录。这段頔塘故道從南浔镇西栅祇园寺旧址向东穿越古镇,出东栅分水墩进入江苏省境内,约长1.6公里,是頔塘沿线至今保存最为完好的一段明清时期的古河道。

治水安民,代有贤人

頔塘这项千年水利工程,之所以至今仍在发挥着航运、排灌等作用,与湖州地区历代治水人的努力是分不开的。创建頔塘水利工程的首位治水人是东晋时的吴兴太守殷康。据《湖州农业史》之记述,殷康于东晋永和年间(公元345年至公元356年)在吴兴筑荻塘。对于殷康的事迹,史书记载不多。但从《资治通鉴》中对他参与讨伐叛军的记载看,殷康当是一个敢于担当、雷厉风行的官员。

又如,唐代的于頔。他是頔塘建设史上的关键人物。据笔者综合《昼上人集》《唐刺史考全编》《吴兴金石记》等诸多材料考证,于頔于唐贞元七年(公元791年)至贞元十年(公元794年)任湖州刺史。于頔对荻塘的修筑,因有功于地方,民感其德,遂改荻塘名“頔塘”。正如当代湖州作家徐建新在《頔塘赋》中所说:“民独以頔命塘者,何哉?夫为官一任,造福一方……所谓得天理、兴水利、顺民心是也。”

在于刺史之后,也有一些主政湖州的刺史修筑过荻塘。如薛戎,同治《湖州府志》载:薛戎“以廉直宽大为称”,而“湖州最患人者,荻塘河水,瀦淤逼塞,不能负舟”,而薛戎“濬之百余里”。

明代的陈幼学也是頔塘建设史上的重要人物。万历三十六年(1608年),湖州知府陈幼学修頔塘,“甃以青石、尤为坚固”。南浔人朱国祯特作《修东塘记》(頔塘当时也叫东塘),记云:“浔水之利害,界以塘、甃以石,中间支派曲折至多,最巨者东塘。自东门尽浔水,凡七十里,履亩而隄,漕道出焉,管一州六邑之口。故浔虽镇,一都会也。自浔而上虽名塘,实驰道也,内护田庐千万。戊申岁,大水,风冲波激,存者无几。太守陈公于是修东塘,凡费一千五百余金。塘成,父老列三德以颂:曰傭工,曰保障,曰利涉。我湖田畴,旱干水溢之无恙也。七十里屹如亘如,而不妄用湖之一钱一粒,则公之功大矣。”从记文可见,陈幼学对頔塘的修筑贡献很大。

20世纪20年代那次頔塘的大修,有一个重要人物必须提及,此人就是南浔富商、著名收藏家庞元济。庞元济,字莱臣,南浔人。父庞云鏳为南浔镇巨富,“四象”之一。在那次頔塘修建过程中,庞元济不仅参与发起修塘倡议,还积极捐资以助建设。此外,他还对修塘之材料提出了自己的建议:“全用石,不如兼用水泥之黏且固。所谓水泥,即今通用之粤厂水门汀也,泥石交融,固黏不解,既无私移之弊,亦无松动之虞。”可见,20世纪20年代对頔塘的修筑,已采用了当时的新材料水泥。

Ditang River: More than 1,000 Years

By Wu Yongxiang

The Ditang River is one of numerous rivers that form a network of irrigation and navigation in Huzhou in northern Zhejiang. In history, Ditang was both a water-control project and a canal.

The water-control project was first built essentially for irrigation by Yin Kang, the governor of Wuxing in the Eastern Jin (317-420), according to a historical book written in the Northern Song Dynasty (960-1127). It doubled as a canal designed and built to connect two other rivers. In the Tang Dynasty (618-907), the canal was upgraded by Yu Di (?-818), the governor of Huzhou from 791-794. Di in the name Ditang refers to the given name of Yu Di. Tang in Chinese refers to dyke or embankment. In the south of the Yangtze River Delta, many rivers have “tang” in their names, suggesting they are canals.

It was and still is part of a bigger irrigation and water-control system around the Taihu Lake. Today, it functions mainly as a canal, starting at Erliqiao east of downtown Huzhou and reaches the Beijing-Hangzhou Canal in Jiangsu Province to the north. Today, the Ditang River stretches about 34 kilometers in Zhejiang.

The project by Huzhou Governor Yu Di was probably the first large-scale official maintenance of the irrigation and water-control watercourse. History says there were many other maintenance and upgrade projects to keep the canal in function. Xue Rong (?-821), a Huzhou Governor in the Tang Dynasty, had Ditang dredged for navigation, according to a history book written in the 19th century. In 1066, Wuxian County magistrate Sun Jue had stone embankments built on two sides along the section within the county. It was the first stone embankment recorded in history. In 1608, Huzhou Governor Chen Youxue had Ditang repaired. Thirty-five kilometers of the riverbanks were shored up with flagstones.

In the first half of the 20th century, Huzhou City did two canal renovation projects. One occurred in the 1920s and the other in the late 1940s. According to written texts and the inscription on a stone stele (It is a tradition in ancient China to set up a stone stele to mark a large-scale project) in Wuxing County, the canal renovation project took nearly 5 years and 823,700 silver dollars to complete. Since the birth of the Peoples Republic of China in 1949, more canal renovation projects have been carried out. The last one started in 2007 and concluded in 2018. The Ditang River is now part of the 160-km canal that starts at Changxing in Zhejiang, via Huzhou in Zhejiang, then traverses the southern tip of Jiangsu Province and reaches Shanghai. The section in Zhejiang is about 95 kilometers long.

In history, towns and villages along Ditang flourished essentially because it connected with the Grand Canal. The canal contributed to the economic and social growth of Huzhou. As the canal doubled as an irrigation system, agriculture boomed. The canal gave birth to many towns in the Song Dynasty (960-1279). Most typical of these towns are Chengshe Town (present-day Zhili Town of Wuxing District, Huzhou City) and Nanxun Town (present-day Nanxun Town, Nanxun District of Huzhou). Chengshe flourished in the Ming (1368-1644) and the Qing (1644-1911) thanks to its printing industry. Books printed in the town were shipped to Hangzhou, Zhenjiang and Haining through the canal system that connected Jiangnan. The town was also famed for producing scholars. Some became government ministers. Some became writers. Today, Zhili is a powerhouse of producing childrens clothes.

Nanxun is best known for its place in the history of silk export to the world. Through the canal, silkworm farmers shipped their products to Shanghai. Silk businesspeople from town exported raw silk to overseas buyers. Through the business, they amassed huge fortune. In words often seen in modern business literature, Nanxun alone produced 84 multi-millionaires back in the 19th century, if local legends are to be believed. Many of them had their garden houses built in town. Some houses have remained and are the biggest attraction of local tourism. The town boasts a 1.6-km section of the ancient Ditang Canal that functioned in the Ming and the Qing.

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