人·鱼·海的两种未来

如今，大洋彼岸的转基因鲑鱼为成为世界首个可食用转基因动物正在全力冲刺。人们认为鱼类从茫茫大海到餐桌的这段旅程理应拥有被知晓这一基本的尊重。保罗·格林伯格（Paul Greenberg，1967年生，美国作家和散文家）在书中以亲切、诙谐的笔锋，从文化、社会、经济、生态等方面，结合采访纪实、亲身体验和渔业科学，深入报道了鲑鱼、海鲈、鳕鱼、鲔鱼这四种鱼的故事。关心海洋、爱鱼或喜爱海鲜的人们，或许你们会愿意跟随作者：

——去尤皮克爱斯基摩人祖传的河流——世上最长的鲑鱼河，造访世上唯一一家获得公平贸易联盟认证的渔业公司。

——了解多氯联苯和汞进入海产食物的过程，了解荷、法营养学家如何改良食物、以色列内分泌学家如何制造荷尔蒙，让地中海海鲈行销全球。

——向《鳕鱼》的作者提出挑战，要求对方品尝养殖鳕与野生鳕的差异，讲述渔业的警示寓言。

——南太平洋海底，寻找以取代濒危的黑鲔鱼的鱼类，为我们描绘出入科幻小说般的代理孕鱼技术。

一九七八年，不知是因为强烈的暴风雨，还是前一年为了控制藻类大量生长撒进的硫酸铜，或者是因为非法入侵的渔民，保罗在他的鱼塘里再也没见着活鱼，于是他寻找到新的钓鱼地——一片数千平方英里的海洋。本文节选自书的前言，讲述了作者儿时的钓鱼经历。

ike any hunter whose grounds have gone bad， I set out looking for new territory. I followed the outflow of the pond down a series of cascades that in turn flattened out into a low， 1）swampy meadow of deep 2）oxbows. Only 3）minuscule 4）shiners， crawfish， and escaped goldfish swam here. Farther and farther I went， until the stream joined a larger river and passage was blocked by a fence that a wealthy landowner had erected. Inspecting a map at the library， I found that this was a significant juncture for my stream （as with “my” pond， I had 5）annexed the stream and referred to it now as “mine”）. The point at which it was no longer my stream was where it entered the Byram River， a flow that during the times of Native American 6）sovereignty was called the Armonck， or “fishing place，” but which， according to one local legend， the English renamed because of the native tendency to 7）pester white men with armfuls of 8）shad and 9）herring for trade and the endlessly repeated 10）entreaty “Buy rum？ Buy rum？” The Byram continued south for another ten miles after the juncture before widening and finally emptying out into the sea. The beginning of an idea came to me.

Several hundred dollars made it into my account after an 11）ersatz 12）bar mitzvah that my partially Jewish family 13）cobbled together for me when I turned thirteen， and through a debt-leveraged matching grant from the depths of my mothers complicated finances I was able to purchase a used aluminum boat and a twentyhorsepower outboard engine. Using her good figure and her ability to forge solidarity with the working classes （she had been a friend of the American socialist Michael Harrington and was an experienced strike 14）aide-de-camp）， my mother persuaded the Greenwich harbormaster to let us jump the waiting list for a boat slip at the Grass Island Marina. By the summer of 1981， I had a boat， a place to store it， and serveral thousand square miles of sea for my own use. Better hunting grounds had been found at last.

This was not the time of child seats or swallow-proof soda-can tabs. No safety seals secured 15）Tylenol bottles or yogurt containers. Today it would be considered parental negligence， but in that first summer of boat ownership my mother would drive me down to the Grass Island Marina， seat belt-less， in her black secondhand luxury-edition Chrysler Cordoba， and drop me off at my thirdhand boat. As I finished dumping my gear out of her trunk， she would light a Dunhill cigarette， cough heavily， and then， with a glance in her rearview， speed off into the childless afternoon ahead of her. So， at the age of thirteen， I learned how to navigate and fish on the sea by myself. It wasnt difficult—Im sure most children， given the opportunity， could have figured it out. Once upon a time， being thirteen really did mean you were a man. But the feeling of steaming out into open water in pursuit of wild game， leaving the financial and physical constriction of mainland Connecticut behind， was exhilarating.

我跟在狩猎场打不到猎物的猎人一样，开始寻找新的钓鱼地点。我跟着从池塘流出的水流，经过一连串小瀑布，来到一片有许多U字形牛轭湾、如沼泽般的低浅草地，那里只有银色小鱼、淡水鳌虾和逃脱的金鱼。我越走越远，最后发现这条小溪汇入一条较大的河流，然后水道被一个富有地主的栅栏拦住。到图书馆研究过地图之后，我发现那里是我那条溪的重要汇流处（跟“我的”池塘一样，我也把这条溪视为“我的”）。但是它汇入白拉穆河后，就不再是我的河流了；在美国原住民的统治时代，白拉穆河原本称为阿尔蒙克，“钓鱼地”之意，但是根据当地的传说，由于原住民经常抱着满怀的西鲱和鲱鱼缠着白人买，他们重复恳求对方买鱼的英文发音，类似“白拉穆”，后来英国人就将这条河重新命名为白拉穆河。白拉穆河经过汇流处后，继续往南十英里，然后开始变宽，最后注入大海。就在这时，我有了一个想法。

我的家族有犹太血统，十三岁时，他们草率地替我举行成年礼后，将数百美元汇入我的账户，于是我利用债务杠杆的手法，通过母亲复杂的财务操作取得等量的赞助金，买了一艘二手铝制汽艇和一个二十马力的船外马达。我母亲外形姣好，又有着使劳工阶层团结一致的能力（她跟美国社会主义者迈克尔·汉灵顿是朋友，在协助推动罢工上经验丰富），她利用这些优势说服格林威治港务局长，让我们优先使用草岛小船停泊港的船坞，而不必在候补名单上等候。到了一九八一年夏天，我已经有一艘小船、一个停泊地点和数千平方英里的海洋供我使用。我终于找到了更好的钓鱼场。

当时还没有儿童座椅或防吞式汽水罐拉环，也没有用于泰诺塑胶药瓶或酸奶罐的封口。有些做法当时稀松平常，若是今日却会被视为父母的疏失，可就在我拥有那艘船后的第一个夏天，母亲开着她那辆没有座椅安全带的二手黑色克莱斯勒科多巴豪华轿车，送我到草岛小船停泊港，让我在我那艘三手船旁下车。当我把装备从后车厢搬下来时，她会点一支登喜路香烟，重重地咳几声，然后瞄一眼后视镜，确定我搬好后迅速离去，奔向不需要照顾小孩的午后。因此，我十三岁就学会了航海，独自在海上捕鱼。其实这并不难，我确定大多数的小孩只要有机会就能自行摸索成功。在以前的年代，满十三岁便意味着成年。但是驾驶汽艇到大海上追捕野生猎物，把康涅狄格州本土的财务与有形限制都抛诸脑后的感觉，实在很棒。

I did not have a GPS to plot my position or sonar to help me find fish. There was no cell phone to “check in” with home. I learned to find quarry by chasing flocks of diving 16）terns or following a line of rocks from the shore with the assumption （usually right） that they indicated similar fish-holding rock piles down below the surface. If a 17）rivet came loose from the hull of my boat—a sometime occurrence， since the 18）hull had not been 19）anodized to withstand salt water—I would slip off a 20）flip-flop and hold the 21）errant piece of metal in place with my big toe. I was sometimes able to persuade my older brother to join me， but midway through that first summer he announced that he “no longer wanted to kill things.” I didnt mind. I was happy to be alone with the fish and the ocean.

By my second year of boat ownership， I began to understand the flow of fish as they came and left Long Island Sound. St. Patricks Day， around when the 22）forsythias first bloomed， was the time to test the mudflats for 23）flounder just off the Indian Harbor Yacht Club docks. By April， when the forsythia 24）shriveled to brown and the 25）dogwoods came into flower， 26）mackerel would have passed into the Sound and blackfish would be on the reefs surrounding Great Captain Island—a sure sign that it was time to put the boat in the water. Soon the lilacs would blossom， 27）heralding the arrival of the first 28）weakfish and29）porgies in May. And by the time lawns were being mowed with 30）ferocity ashore， bluefish were coming into the harbors.

当时没有卫星定位系统可以标示我的位置，也没有声纳可以帮忙搜索鱼群，当然更没有手机可以跟家里“报备”行踪。我学会靠追踪潜水的燕鸥来寻找猎物，或是沿着海边的岩石航行，因为这些通常意味着海面下有岩石堆，藏有大量鱼群，而我通常是对的。我那艘船的铆钉有时会松脱，因为它的表面没有经过电镀，无法抵挡海水的侵蚀。每当发生这种情形时，我会脱掉一只凉鞋，用大脚趾把松脱的铆钉踩在原位。有时我会说服我哥跟我一起去，但是那年夏天才过了一半，他就宣布“不再杀生”。我对此并不介意，反正我跟鱼和海洋独处也能自得其乐。

到了拥有船的第二年，我已经找到鱼群进出长岛海湾的路线。每到圣帕特里克日，也就是连翘首次开花的时节，可以到印第安港游艇俱乐部船坞外、退潮后形成的泥地，寻求鲽鱼。到了四月，连翘枯萎，山茱萸绽放，这时鲭鱼会游进海湾，而黑鱼会前往环绕大船长岛的暗礁，显然是把船开出去的好时机。过了不久，丁香盛开，便能迎接五月的第一群犬牙石首鱼和鲷鱼。等到岸边大量除草时，就是扁 入港的时节。