破洞牛仔裤，来头可不小

阿琼

What do Henry VIII of England and the youth punk1） culture have in common？

More than you've ever thought！

Choose a pair of ripped jeans and you'll be super trendy. Skinny or high-waisted， relaxed or fitted， boyfriend， cigarette or cropped， the essential one must be ripped！

This season's popular fashion is inspired by the 1970s and not surprisingly the ripped jeans are the protagonist2） of this ultimate glamorous revival3）， which is taking inspiration from the rebel attitude of the 70's generation.

But don't be fooled by those rebellious people. They just set the ripped jeans as a status symbol， but they didn't create anything new.

During the Renaissance， a flourishing fashion habit shocked society. This extremely vain and scandalous trend consisted in cutting a garment， in order to pull the fabric from the undergarment4） through， to form puffs5）. This practice was called slashing6） and puffing.

The vertical7）， horizontal or diagonal8） slits9） in the fabric of the garment were considered as an insult， not only because the expensive fabric was irremediably10） damaged， but also because this trend was an indecent and superb showcase of the aristocratic wealth.

Slashing and puffing were the symbol of real luxury， so that the government applied sumptuary laws11）， whose intent was to restrict the use of slashing and puffing. In fact only the sleeves of the garment could be cut and the white undergarment pulled through them.

Even if the concepts behind those two practices are very different， the final intent of both is very similar. Either ripped jeans or slashing and puffing want to disobey the common taste and the common fashion rules， in order to gain attention， expressing a strong message and a firm idea.

Ripped jeans set a hedge12） between the past's fashion habits and the brand new way to wear damaged clothes. Young generations， rock-stars and innovators saw into ripped jeans the lacerations13） of a world that was irremediably changing.

On the other hand the "rock-stars" of the Renaissance （the most famous one was Henry VIII of England） were all concentrated to demonstrate their opulent14） richness， without caring about the preciousness of their marvelous fabrics.

So when you go shopping for a pair of ripped jeans， remember that the idea behind them is 500 years old and just in case you need to justify the ripped jeans to your parents and friends， you'll surely impress them with this story.

英王亨利八世

如今，破洞牛仔裤已成一种时尚，百搭又时髦，人见人爱。近来，破洞牛仔裤更有越来越破之势，到底是什么原因呢？随本文来一探究竟吧。

英王亨利八世和年轻人的朋克文化之间有什么共同之处？

绝对比你想的要多！

挑一条破洞牛仔裤穿上，你会变得超级时髦。不论窄腿或是高腰，休闲或是紧身，阔腿、铅笔又或是九分裤，最重要的一点一定得是破洞的！

这一季的时尚潮流受20世纪70年代影响，破洞牛仔裤毫不令人意外地成为这一极具魅力的复古潮流的主角，其灵感来源是70一代的叛逆态度。

不过别被那些叛逆者糊弄，他们只是使破洞牛仔裤成了身份象征，却并没有任何创新。

在文艺复兴时期，一种盛极一时的时尚习惯震惊了社会。这种极其虚荣、令人震惊的风潮是将外套剪坏，为的是把衬衣的布料拽出来，制造出蓬蓬的效果。这一做法叫做“开缝和泡裥”。

外衣上或竖或横或斜着的开缝在当时被看做是一种羞辱，这不仅是因为昂贵的衣料被损毁后无法修复，还由于这种风潮是对贵族财富的一种不得体的、极端的展示。

开缝和泡裥在当时是真正奢侈的象征，因而当时的政府实行了节约法令，意图限制开缝和泡裥的使用。事实上，只有外套的袖子可以被剪坏，白色衬衣从那里拽出来。

虽然破洞牛仔裤与开缝和泡裥背后的观念迥然不同，但两者最终的目的却十分相似。不论是破洞牛仔裤还是开缝和泡裥，都意在通过违背大众品位和大众时尚规则来赢得人们的关注，传达一种强烈的信息和坚定的信念。

破洞牛仔裤在传统的时尚习惯和穿破损衣服的全新方式之间设下了一道藩篱。年轻一代、摇滚巨星以及革新者从破洞牛仔裤中看到的是一个正在经历不可逆转变化的世界中的道道裂缝。

另一方面，文艺复兴时期的“摇滚巨星”（最著名的要数英王亨利八世）都挖空了心思来展示他们惊人的财富，毫不在意他们所穿的华丽衣料有多珍贵。

所以，当你打算买一条破洞牛仔裤时，记得它背后的理念已有500年历史，万一你需要在你的父母和朋友面前为破洞牛仔裤正名，用这个故事一定会让他们印象深刻。

1. punk [p??k] n. 朋克，是一种源于20世纪60年代的简单摇滚乐，不太讲究音乐技巧，更加倾向于思想解放和反主流的尖锐立场。后来催生了朋克文化。

2. protagonist [pr??t?ɡ?n?st] n. 主角

3. revival [r??va?vl] n. 復兴；重新流行

4. undergarment [??nd?ɡɑ?m?nt] n. 衬衣，内衣

5. puff [p?f] n. （衣服等上的）泡裥；vt. 使成蓬松的圆形（或圆筒形）

6. slash [sl??] v. 割破。这里指为衣服开缝。

7. vertical [?v??t?kl] adj. 垂直的

8. diagonal [da???ɡ?nl] adj. 对角线的

9. slit [sl?t] n. 裂缝

10. irremediably [??r??mi?di?bli] adv. 无法补救地

11. sumptuary law： 节约条例，禁止奢侈的法令

12. hedge [hed?] n. 树篱

13. laceration [?l?s??re??n] n. 裂口

14. opulent [??pj?l?nt] adj. 豪华的；奢侈的