好吃不过饺子

范雅琳

父亲在胶东当了几十年的兵，学会了一门手艺，那就是包饺子。饺子皮薄馅多，又大又鼓，大元宝似的。

或许是总承担着耐着性子剁肉馅的重任，被喜欢放很多葱的母亲“逼”得汪洋了一波又一波的涕泪；或许是从小不喜荤，对父亲包的好看的肉馅饺子没有丝毫的兴趣。过年吃饺子时就去寻个凉馒头就块炸带鱼或腌咸菜吃。为此没少挨过训，对饺子一直避而远之。

可是无意中吃了白菜丁肉丁的沙馅饺子后突然喜欢上了饺子，也常常地包起。冬天里的胶东大白菜最是鲜嫩香甜，洗净控干切丁，一小把五花肉丁撒进去若隐若现，葱姜蒜必不可少，一点盐一点味极鲜酱油和胶东特产花生油，一拌，脆而生汁，沙沙利口，香而不腻，这饺子就好吃得让你飞上了天。

儿子小的时候也不喜欢饺子。朝阳街曾有一个家常的鲅鱼饺子馆，包饺子的都是本地的妇女，包得一手好看的鲅鱼饺子，很地道，很鲜美。于是有一天就带他过来试一试。四五岁的儿子安静地坐在那里，专注地吸吮着从海边买来的渔家妇女刚烀好的新鲜小海锥，似乎对这极鲜的小海鲜很感兴趣。

热腾腾的鲅鱼饺子一会儿端了上来，个头很大，弯弯的，像月牙，更像是一只只停泊在港湾的小白船。整齐的饺子边，没有华丽的褶皱，很朴实。饺子皮很薄紧裹着白嫩紧致的馅，间或着星星点点的绿，似顽皮的海草爬上了船，各种的鲜挟裹着漂亮的小船划向眼前 ，儿子张开了小嘴巴。连着六个饺子下去，小肚子一下子鼓了起来……多么美好的时刻，一记就是一辈子。

所有的美好都愿意去尝试。

买来一条鲜鲅鱼去皮剔刺，取鱼肉剁碎。剁好的鱼肉放进盆里，取一碗煮开晾凉的葱姜花椒水慢慢添加。一次加一点，顺一个方向使劲儿地搅，搅匀了放置一会儿待馅稠时再添水，再使劲地搅……如此反复四五次，待搅得鱼馅黏黏糊糊，细腻润滑如琼脂般时加韭菜碎、油和胡椒粉。在包之前，最后放盐。皮要薄要大，才能装得下鱼馅这般大气的盛世美颜，才能体现出海边人热情似海的胸怀。

盛产于黄渤海的鲅鱼肉厚刺少，物美价廉，是做鱼馅的最佳选择，个大滑爽鲜美，烟台的鲅鱼饺子，名扬四海。

科技发展，搅拌机进入千家万户，鱼馅几分钟即可搞定，市场里也出现了专业制作鱼馅的摊位，馅料新鲜味美，做丸子包饺子都是极好的。就有了口福，不仅能吃到鲅鱼馅饺子还能吃到小黄花鱼和牙片鱼馅的饺子。小黄花鱼是黄渤海深海的鱼种，深得胶东人的喜爱，虽然体小刺多但含有丰富的蛋白质和微量元素硒，焖、炸做丸子或馅料，都是鲜美无比。唯生于黄渤海的牙片鱼肉质细嫩而洁白，亦是上乘的馅料。

好吃不过饺子，胶东人送行必吃 “上船的餃子”。这饺子里包裹的就不仅是各种美味的馅料，还有家人的牵挂，山海的深情和岁月里的点点滴滴……

My father once served in the army in Jiaodong for decades and during this period， he acquired the craft of making jiaozi. The jiaozi he made was big and bulging with thin wrappers and much stuffing， just like big ingots.

Perhaps it was because I had to take the responsibility of chopping the meat into minced stuffing， I was forced to burst into tears many times by my mother who would like to put a lot of scallions in the stuffing. Perhaps it was because I didn’t like meat since I was young， I showed no interest in the beautiful meat-stuffed jiaozi my father made. Every Spring Festival when jiaozi was put on the table， I would find a cold steamed bread to eat with fried hairtail or preserved pickles. For my being picky， I received many reprimands and have always avoided the eating of jiaozi.