水调数声持酒听

2020-10-20 06:06徐芳芳
文化交流 2020年10期
关键词:古玩嘉兴粽子

徐芳芳

点茶歇、喝咖啡、品美食、泡酒吧、淘古玩、赏花鸟、做手工、逛老街、住民宿……在月河,每一个人都能找到属于自己的休闲方式。

晴空下、月光里、星辉中,月河是嘉兴人最柔情的港湾。

如果您要问嘉兴的月河历史街区是什么样子的,真的是一百个人心中就有一百个月河。月河不仅是嘉兴南湖旅游区的重要组成部分,更是嘉兴文化的体验地。

清代《读史方舆纪要·嘉兴府》有“运河”条目:“运河在城西,又东流十八里,经学绣塔。又东五里,经白龙潭,又转而北,绕府城下,为月河,与秀水合……”月河位于嘉兴城北,连通大运河,形成了有如月亮的一个弯,于是有了“其水弯曲,抱城如月”,月河,便取名于此。

如果从建筑规划的角度来看,月河是嘉兴市现存最完整、规模最大、最能反映江南水乡城市居住特色、文化特色的区域之一,其总占地面积达9万平方米;如果从游客的角度来说,月河是一个多元而又有趣的地方,她身上自带大气之美,自2008年对外开放起就免门票,敞开怀抱笑迎天下客,吸引了五湖四海的客商。概括地说,这里是老年人的快乐驿站、年轻人的动感地带、食客们的寻味天堂、古玩行家的淘宝地、商旅人士的休闲处……从人文的角度来说,她是运河文化的一枝,是中国端午民俗文化的一个符号。

从高空俯瞰,月河如弯月抱城。整个月河历史街区以平行的“三河三街”为基本格局,三河包括京杭大运河、外月河、里月河,三街包括中基路、坛弄、秀水兜街。其中外月河是京杭大运河嘉兴段的重要组成部分。1700多年以来,京杭大运河就沿着这条水道一路往南。居住在运河旁的禾城先辈,在流金岁月中繁衍生息,慢慢形成以江南民居为特色的商业聚集区。春天,绿色的河、白色的墙、黛青色的瓦,片片桃红柳绿点缀其中,好一幅小桥流水人家的江南风光,静态的月河犹如一幅江南水墨画。

夏蝉鸣,秋气爽,冬如意。每一个季节,月河自有她的格调。

月河历史街区有着大家闺秀的静谧与优雅,也有着邻家姐姐的亲切与包容。由于街区是免票的,所以月河在不同客人面前的形象和功能也不尽相同。

在水运还是主要交通方式的时候,沿河的小猪廊下,是运河南北经济的黄金水道、漕运的重要枢纽和当地米市、苗猪的集散交易中心,这里客商云集,货船熙熙攘攘地在这里停泊、起航。这里曾是漫画家张乐平创作灵感之地,據说他的《三毛流浪记》场景原型就出自月河。这里也是文化老人吴藕汀暂居之地,他在《药窗诗话》里记录了月河街怡园茶馆老板的赊茶行商、朴素诚信。如今,这里是老年人的快乐驿站。每天一早,长廊下座无虚席,大家三五成群相聚于此,享受着美妙的早茶时光。各色茶品是要吃的,张萃丰的蜜饯自然要尝的,嘉湖细点更是早茶必备之物。他们在小猪廊下交谈着,或是在追忆青春,或是在品味人生。茶能醒脑,叙旧之后的他们干脆分起了扑克、摆下了棋盘,在各色纸牌中斗智斗勇双全,在纵横交错的棋盘上一展运筹帷幄的风采……

中基路上游人如织,一半是琳琅满目的美食铺,一半是珠光宝气的玉器古玩商店。

星巴克、肯德基吸引着年轻人的光临。陆稿荐、邹大鲜、江南外婆桥、真真老老、嘉湖细点这些老字号,用最诱人的香味牢牢抓住吃货们的胃。

这里又是华东地区最大的古玩交易市场,各色玉器珠宝总能吸引游客的目光。最令古玩爱好者喜爱的,莫过于每个周末的月河古玩集会,这时,五湖四海的古玩爱好者蜂拥而至,把整个集市围得水泄不通。各色古玩摆上街头,买卖双方说着你听不懂的行话,打着你看不明白的手势,品评器物,洽谈价格。有的聘请行家里手过来助阵,有的抱着平常心以佛系心态想着捡漏,哪怕什么也不买,长长眼、感受一下古玩集市的闹猛,也是不错的选择。

然而闹猛地方还有许多,譬如中基路的西北角就隐藏着一个大型花鸟市场,全国各地甚至国外的花朵漂洋过海齐聚于此。热爱生活的人们在这里挑选心仪的花儿装扮自己的庭院客厅,老人小孩则喜欢在鸟类区挑选心仪的宠物。

在后街,每当夜幕降临,老木头、小酒窝、九点半、山之道、石库门、青杨……沉睡了一天的众多酒吧开启了夜生活的模式,人们相伴而来,喝点小酒、唱点小歌,释放压力、舒缓疲劳,月河酒吧一条街成为年轻人解压的“动感地带”。

如果你是匆匆的过客,或许你会说,月河缺乏人文历史的沉淀;但如果这你愿意慢享月河的给予,你会发现月河历史街区处处散发着人文气息。

譬如中国近现代著名的文字学家、历史学家、青铜器专家唐兰,国内佛学界权威范古农,就是在月河出生的。

如果你喜爱蜜饯,就会知道创始于1914年的张萃丰已经传承百年,今天的第六代掌门人张爱灵扛起了嘉兴蜜饯行业的大旗;

如果你去吃个粽子,就会了解真真老老从1912年起历经百年的打磨传到今天,第三代传人邵建国继续弘扬着嘉兴的粽子文化;

如果你去吃了酱鸭,就会知道陆稿荐的百年风云;

如果你去嘉禾结绳铺子买个香囊,就会知道店铺里慈祥的老人叫郑莺莺,郑家的香囊制作技艺在1918年就已经名震一方,如今已成为禾城第六批传统技艺……

如果你漫步在江南的雨巷,令人印象最深的还是端午民俗文化。因为在月河,你随处可以触摸、体验这一民俗活动。

嘉禾端午民俗体验馆暨月河嘉湖细点体验馆的大厅里,两艘金色的龙舟立在水中蓄势待发,展厅内有关于端午的起源和习俗的介绍;街区里的粽子文化博物馆,清楚明白地解读着江浙端午文化的起源、习俗与传承的不同。

南湖旅游区是嘉兴端午民俗文化节举办地之一,月河历史街区更是众多端午活动的体验地,从端午百粽宴到运河长街宴,从包粽子大赛到五彩香囊迎端午,从龙舟赛到嘉禾水上婚典,浓厚的端午氛围吸引了无数中外游客的参与。赛龙舟、吃五黄、包粽子、佩香囊、挂艾草……一串串香囊、一幅幅剪纸、一枚枚粽子、一组组文创旅游商品,成为礼物,化为乡愁,通过海陆空不同的物流方式,送到了海外华人华侨、国际友人的手中……

點茶歇、喝咖啡、品美食、泡酒吧、淘古玩、赏花鸟、做手工、逛老街、住民宿……在月河,每一个人都能找到属于自己的休闲方式;

晴空下、月光里、星辉中,月河是嘉兴人最柔情的港湾。

月河,你好!

As a geographic book of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) has it, the Moon River in the north of Jiaxing City connects with the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal on both ends. As it curves like a crescent moon, this part of the moat is aptly called the Moon River. Over the past 1,700 years, the Grand Canal has been a golden watercourse, bringing fortune and luck to Jiaxing so heartily embraced by the Moon River.

As Jiaxing grew and expanded, the characters Moon River have been referred to a much larger area. At present, Moon River is a general name for a 90,000-square-meter area traversed by the Grand Canal, the Inner Moon River and the Outer Moon River and Zhongji Road, Tan Lane and Xiushuidou Street where regional architecture, traditional lifestyle, history and culture are well preserved and highlighted.

There are ample reasons why the area is now known as Moon River Historical Neighborhood. The area features different things to different visitors. Before modernization introduced highways to China, shipping on the inland water transport was a major booster of economic prosperity in this part of the country. Along the Moon River were many docks for business where consumer goods changed hands between wholesalers at different levels. The area was a wholesale and retail center for the region.

Naturally, the area boasts culture and history. For example, the neighborhood is said to have served as the original background of the famous comic series created by Zhang Leping (1910-1992), a master cartoonist. Wu Outing (1913-2005), a painter and poet and native of Jiaxing, wrote in a book that a teahouse businessman in the Moon River neighborhood did his business honestly. Tang Lan (1901-1979), a man of letters, historian, scholar of bronze artifacts, was born in the area. Fan Gunong (1881-1951), a scholar of Buddhism, was also born in the area. Local food writers would be most happy to discuss the culinary wonders of the region and trace their histories and personages behind success stories.

The Moon River Historical Neighborhood boasts the biggest antique marketplace in the east of China, where dealers gravitate from all over the country and a large quantity of jade artifacts and jade jewelry change hands on weekends. In a corner of the area, there is a flower and pet marketplace which attracts buyers from all over the city.

Quite a few shops in the area are famed for the traditional culinary art of Jiaxing. Lu Gao Jian, a duck shop specialized in making and selling ducks seasoned with soybean sauce, is more than 100 years old. Zhang Cui Feng, founded in 1914, is the best candied fruits manufacturer and retailer in Jiaxing. A pyramid-shaped rice dumpling shop in the area dates back to 1912. The fame of a shop that makes and sells herbal-perfume sachets dates back to 1918.

Naturally, there are some elements of modern lifestyle in the area. In a backstreet that is conveniently called Back Street, nightclubs attract a large young clientele. Starbucks and Kentucky Fried Chicken highlight their presence in the Moon River area.

The traditional and modern allures in the Moon River area combine to be a huge tourist attraction, which has been free of admission fee since 2008. Tourists find local delicacies and jewelry irresistible when they stroll along Zhongji Road and see restaurants, food shops, souvenir shops, and jewelry shops. It is also favored by local visitors. Local gourmets love to have a good time in the area. Business people also love to entertain their guests here. Seniors of Jiaxing love to hang out there chatting over a cup of tea, playing poker or chess games, and enjoying traditional snack food and delicacies at old-time restaurants and shops.

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